Roast Turkey with Cranberry Mole & Frijoles with Bacon Ends
Recipes by: Tristan Guilbeault
Finished Photos by: Erin Walker
Instagram: @tristangcooks
It is the time of year when turkey reigns supreme. We’ve gone through our first big snow spell and now with December looming we shift our focus to Christmas and perhaps the most famous of dinners. Cooking a turkey and ensuring it turns out flavourful can be a daunting and time-consuming task. A little tip from a chef, it's not always about the protein, it should be cooked well, but the real star is the sauce! A great sauce can fix a world of hurt and even save an abysmal turkey.
It was important for me when creating this recipe to do something different. Not being the biggest fan of turkey myself I always flock to the thighs, typically the juicest and most flavourful part of the bird. So today in this recipe I will be using the thigh roast from Winter’s Turkey Farm in Dalemead. This size of the roast is perfect for a smaller get-together, while they carry whole birds for larger get-togethers. On Winter’s Turkeys website, you can find tips and recipes on how to cook these whole birds to perfection, whether roasting, smoking or deep-frying your bird.
“Molli” or “mole” is a Mayan pre-hispanic term translating to ‘mixture.’ Mole is a sauce very complex in flavour; sweet, spicy, bitter and full of umami. Originally the sauce was a mixture of chillies and tomatoes and then slowly nuts, seeds and more exotic ingredients like dried fruit and even chocolate began to be added over time. There are many regional and household varieties of mole, in Oaxaca, known as “the land of the seven moles”, each household and family member may prepare their mole slightly differently, some moles even contain up to 50 ingredients! Mole is traditionally served for Christmas alongside poached or roasted whole turkey. The sauce is so flavourful that the turkey just needs to be turkey - a canvas for the sauce to shine.
I have made mole a handful of times and what makes it special is the most prominent ingredient, e.g. the ingredient with the most flavour or the largest amount added. If you can add a lot of chili’s the mole will become quite red and spicy known as Coloradito, if you add lots of dried fruit it becomes Manchamantels (known as ‘table-stainer’ in English), add a lot of nuts it becomes Almendras or Cacahuate (almond or peanut). Today in this recipe I wanted the flavour of the sauce to be familiar but still unique. Cranberry mole is not traditional but the addition of canned cranberry sauce adds a sweetness and tartness unique to this mole and is perfect for Christmas dinner.
This recipe uses all Amaranth ingredients including local turkey from Dalemead, Agria potatoes from Poplar Bluff, cultured butter from Ponoka and organic cranberries. This recipe is meant to bring more flavour to Christmas dinner while still having some familiarity. The mole and mashed potatoes can be made ahead of time for easy execution on the day of. The trinity of mashed potatoes, roasted turkey and mole makes for a delicious and show-stopping dinner that will have people asking for the recipe!
Roast Turkey with Cranberry Mole
Recipe from Tristan Guilbeault
Dietary restrictions: Can be made nut-free, can be made gluten-free
Total Time: 3-5 hours (mostly hands-off)
Yields: Feeds 6-8
Ingredients
Oven-Roasted Turkey
● 1 Winter’s Turkey thigh roast, or a whole bird, roasted according to your favourite recipe
Cranberry Mole
● 2 tbsp Spice Merchant Ancho Chili
● 1 tbsp Chipotle in Adobo (we recommend Dos Amigos)
● ⅓ cup white Sesame Seeds
● ⅓ cup Pumpkin Seeds
● ⅓ cup Hazelnuts, Peanuts or Almonds
● 1 Beefsteak or 2 medium-sized Tomatoes
● 1 large white or yellow Onion, cut crosswise
● 5 cloves Garlic
● 6-7 pieces whole Cloves
● 2 pieces whole Star Anise
● 1 stick Cinnamon
● 1 tsp All-spice
● 1 tsp whole Black Peppercorns
● 1 heaping tsp Oregano (we recommend Simply Organic, Westpoint Organic, Chickadee Farms)
● 1 tsp Thyme (we recommend Simply Organic, Chickadee Farms)
● ½ tsp Sweet Marjoram (we recommend Chickadee Farms)
● 2 slices heavily Toasted Bread (end pieces work well here)
● 2 cans Organic Jellied or Whole Cranberry Sauce (we recommend Earth’s Choice, Sprague or The Bog)
● Chicken stock, homemade turkey stock or water to cover (we recommend Pacific Foods, High-Vibe Health, Bo & Marrow)
Classic Creamy Mashed Potatoes
● 5 lb bag Agria or Russet Potatoes (we recommend Poplar Bluff)
● 1 box Coarse Salt (we recommend Redmond, San Remo Mediterranean)
● ⅔ cup (150g) Rock Ridge Dairy Unsalted Cultured Butter
● 1cup (250ml) Whipping Cream 35% (we recommend Avalon, Bles-Wold)
● 1cup (250ml) Whole Milk 3.5% (we recommend Vital Greens Farms, Bles-wold, Rock Ridge Dairy)
● 1tsp Salt, plus more to taste
● 1tsp fresh cracked Pepper, more to taste
Garnish
● white Sesame Seeds
Instructions - Mole
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the hazelnuts in a square metal pan or small tray. Add to oven and roast for 10 minutes, the skin will have begun to blacken and separate and the hazelnuts will smell nice and toasty, take out of the oven and place the nuts on a kitchen towel. Close the cloth and gently rub the hazelnuts between the cloth until the skins come off. Add to a bowl.
2. Increase the oven heat to 425. Cover a sheet tray with parchment and add the beefsteak tomato, cloves of garlic and 1 white onion cut crosswise into strips. Roast for 45 minutes or until the onions have begun to char on the edges.
3. While waiting for the vegetables toast the remaining seeds and spices. Place a medium-sized frying pan over medium-low heat. Do not add any oil. Add the pumpkin seeds, stirring every 30 seconds or so for 2-3 minutes, until the seeds have begun to gain colour and begin to “sing” (pumpkin seeds have an affinity for making popping sounds as they heat up). Once the seeds are nice and roasted add to the bowl. Using the same pan add the sesame seeds and stir every 15 seconds or so for 1-2 minutes until they have slightly darkened and are fragrant (toast more sesame seeds than needed so you have some for garnish). Add to the bowl. Toast the whole spices for 1-2 minutes until the cloves have begun to change colour, stirring occasionally. Add to the bowl.
4. Toast the bread, add to a toaster and toast until heavily browned around 2-3 minutes, slightly blackened is okay. Add to the bowl.
5. Once the vegetables have finished roasting add them to a medium-sized pot with the rest of the ingredients from the bowl. Add the powdered spices, including the ancho chili and chipotle in adobo, then add enough stock or water to cover all the ingredients. Bring to a low boil over medium heat then reduce to a simmer. Cook for 1 hour.
6. Add the two cans of cranberry sauce as well as ¼ cup sugar and 1 teaspoon salt. Add into the blender and blend in batches, running the blender for 3-5 minutes or until the sauce is smooth, use a spoon and taste, if it ends up gritty on your tongue blend longer (if this grittiness does not go away, the sauce may be put through a sieve). Add back into the pot and place on low heat covered with a lid. If making the day ahead let this mole cook for another hour or two (or as long as you can, the flavour and colour will get deeper the longer it gets cooked) and then turn the heat off and let fully cool before placing it in the fridge. Once the turkey is finished strain the broth and fat that is left at the bottom of the pan, and mix this into the mole until it has the texture of a light gravy. Let it cook for another 5-10 minutes to lightly thicken, and then taste if it needs more salt or sugar. Serve spooned over top of the lean pieces of turkey or on the side for people to grab as they please.
Instructions - Mashed Potatoes
1. These mashed potatoes may be made at the same time as the recipe above. Using a large roasting pan or sheet tray lightly cover the bottom with the coarse salt. This ensures that the potatoes cook evenly and that excess liquid evaporates. Place the potatoes onto the salt and then place into the oven. Cook at 425 for 1 hour or until a fork or toothpick can be easily inserted through the largest potato.
2. Add the butter, cream and milk to a small saucepan and gently warm over low heat. Once the butter has melted the heat may be turned off.
3. Once the potatoes are finished take out of the oven and let cool for 15-20 minutes. The hotter the potato the fluffier the mash, but we don’t want to be playing hot potato! Peel the potatoes using your fingers or a spoon. Mash them quickly with either a fork or potato masher, if you are worried about lumps press the hot potatoes through a sieve or potato ricer.
4. Add the dairy. Into the bowl of potatoes add the dairy in 1/3rd at a time, mixing with a spatula or your hands to incorporate, continue until all the dairy is added. Season with the salt and pepper, mix and then taste. The key to a good mash is butter but the second is seasoning. Add to a ceramic bowl and cover if serving immediately, a medium-sized pot with a lid for later in the day or let completely cool and place in the fridge for the next day!
Instructions - Turkey Thigh Roast
1. Cut the thawed roast from its packaging and place on a small metal tray, lightly salt all sides. If time allows let the roast sit in the fridge for 24 hours. The salt and cool air from the fridge will help dry out the skin. Take out of the fridge a couple of hours before cooking to let the roast reach room temperature.
2. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the roast on a wire rack in a roasting pan, bake for 50 minutes, then check the internal temperature, once it hits 145 take it out and let rest for 10 or so minutes. Once cooled enough to handle, use scissors to remove the netting. Put the oven on a low broil (around 425-450 degrees Fahrenheit) and add the turkey back into the oven on a medium-leveled rack. Broil for 5-10 minutes until the skin is crisp. Let rest again for 15-20 minutes then slice. Serve with mole spooned over top or on the side, sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve with mashed potatoes. Enjoy my version of the infamous Christmas dinner, full of comfort, warmth and spice!
Balance
When cooking, balance often is the difference between a good meal and a great one. Mole is the perfect example, with its numerous ingredients and complex flavour, the mole must be seasoned harmoniously. Seasoning with salt and sugar brings balance to the sauce by equalizing the sweetness, spiciness and bitterness. If you end up at step 6 in the mole instructions and the mole does not taste great do not worry. The longer the mole cooks the more flavourful it will become. Once you add the sugar typically the mole begins to taste a lot better, everyone's palette is different however, so get a family member to try it and continue to add salt and sugar until it tastes good. Once you add the turkey broth, continue to taste and season, but at this point, it should taste perfectly balanced and delicious!
Yield
This recipe yields 2L of mashed potatoes, enough to feed 6-8 people well. It also yields around 2L of mole, enough to feed up to 20 people once properly diluted and seasoned. The Winter’s Turkey thigh roast I used in this recipe was very delicious but went quickly, feeding around 4 people happily.
Storage, Freezing and Reheating
Both the mole and mashed potatoes in this recipe may be stored in the fridge for up to 10 days or frozen for up to one year. The mole may be put in deli containers, glass containers or mason jars and then placed in the fridge or the freezer. To thaw place the mole in the fridge for 1-2 days or in a bowl of cold water on the counter. To reheat add to a small or medium-sized pot and dilute with broth, season appropriately and serve. The mashed potatoes may be put in a deli container, glass or plastic container and placed in the fridge or freezer. To thaw place in the fridge for 1-2 days. To reheat mashed potatoes use a large non-stick shallow pot and place it on low heat covered with a lid, every 5 minutes stir until the mixture is hot, shut off the heat and serve.
Turkey Broth
Broth is an important ingredient in the mole and provides the background flavours and fat necessary to bring the sauce together. Store-bought or homemade chicken broth works fine, but if you are cooking turkey why not use the turkey itself? The jus from the bottom of the turkey roaster works well, or you can make your stock. People typically reserve the wing tips and neck for gravy, instead make a stock with any vegetable trim on hand. Oh and don’t throw out those turkey bones, they make a delicious broth that can be used for soup or reserved, frozen and used for next year's mole!
Substitutes
Mole differs so much between households because they use the ingredients they have in their pantry. Not everyone has marjoram in their cupboard, but if you do it works well in this recipe. Try to substitute similar items in similar amounts, e.g. ancho chili is a mild smoky chili from Mexico, use smoked paprika with a small amount of cayenne to substitute this flavour if necessary. For families who are nut-free, you may use peanuts instead of almonds or hazelnuts, or if peanuts are off the table double the pumpkin seeds instead. To make this recipe gluten-free, use corn tortillas, just make sure they are nicely toasted and crispy. If you or your family is sensitive to spice use only half or even a third of the chipotle in adobo, the flavour boost it provides is amazing but it comes at a spicy price!
Sides
This recipe contains a side and a main. Other recipes that would work served alongside include my Huancina Mac and Cheese with Butternut Squash, Roasted Purple Sweet Potatoes, and Brown Butter Apple Crumble.
Turkey Fun Facts
● The first written description of a wild turkey was in 1525 by a man named Oviedo in his book General and Natural History of the Indies.
● Turkeys can be found all over North America from southern Canada to central and northern Mexico. Preferring woodland habitats these birds have been used as food by Native Americans and Mayans for centuries. It is thought that the Mayans domesticated a sub-species of the North American turkey as early as 25 A.D.
● Spanish explorers took a couple of domesticated turkeys back to Europe in the 1500s. These large birds became popular quickly and were seen as well-eating fare by wealthy elites.
● In the mid-1500s turkey was commonly enjoyed at fairs and festivals and became standard fare for Christmas dinner.
Beans are a classic Latin American staple found in nearly every Mexican restaurant you visit! Beans come in a variety of shapes and sizes in Central and South America. For most people in the region, legumes are where they get the most of their protein. There are thousands of different recipes for beans and no matter the variety, the goal is soft and tender beans. But there are many dilemmas on how to get there. To soak or not? Should you use a pressure cooker? Many families in Mexico are old-school and prefer to use their traditional clay pots, the alkaline present in that clay is said to help break and soften legumes. But for most soaking is a routine, the night before the beans are covered with water and a tea towel and placed by the stove. It is a ritual, but not a necessary one, if you forget to soak your beans, don’t fret, they will only take slightly longer to cook!
This recipe is inspired by Mexican, Colombian and Brazilian styles of beans. Through working in a kitchen I have developed a great love for beans, filling in their own right and easy to grow, they are one of nature's great bounties! My version of black beans is inspired by bits and pieces of recipes from different countries together to make a dish of stewed beans that hits all the best notes. Beans must have a lot of flavour and a smooth creamy base created by the broken-down starches and fat. In my recipe for frijoles, I like to use “hagao”, a Columbian sofrito made of tomatoes, onion, garlic and cumin. Mexican chili peppers are also necessary for my beans, they provide earthy, bitter, spicy and smokey undertones which bring so much flavour to the beans. Finally, I like a protein in my beans, something smokey like bacon brings richness. The result is a rich broth full of nutrients and flavour, these beans are fit for a feast or a meal in their own right!
This recipe uses all Amaranth ingredients including Canadian-grown black beans, Alberta bacon, garlic and cherry tomatoes. This recipe is economical (1lb of beans costs around $4) gluten-free and dairy-free! Beans are also really easy to reheat or make ahead of time and freeze. This recipe may take some time, but it is mostly hands-off and well worth it!
Frijoles with Bacon Ends
Recipe from Tristan Guilbeault
Dietary Restrictions: Gluten-free, dairy-free, nut-free
Total Time: 15 hours 10 minutes | (Preparation): 10 minutes | (Soaking): minimum 12 hours | (Cooking): 2-3 hours
Feeds: 6-8
Ingredients
“Hagao” or Columbian Sofrito
● 114oz can crushed, diced or whole Tomatoes (we recommend San Remo, Bioitalia)
● 1 medium yellow or white Onion, small diced
● 1 tsp whole or ground Cumin
● 4 cloves Garlic, minced
● ½ tsp Salt
Frijoles
● 2 cups Black Beans, soaked the night before
● 1 package Bacon ends or regular Bacon (we recommend Irvings Farm Fresh, Old Country, Plat Wild Boar Bacon)
● 2 tsp Oregano (we recommend Simply Organic, Chickadee Farms)
● 2 tsp Spice Merchant Ancho Chile
● ¼ tsp Simply Organic Chipotle Powder
● 1 tbsp Apple Cider Vinegar (we recommend Bragg, Triple Jim, Filsingers, San Remo)
● 1 tbsp Brown or Cane Sugar (we recommend Camino, Wholesome, Everland)
● 3 Bay Leaves
Garlic Chips
● 4-5 whole Garlic cloves, thinly sliced
● ½ cup neutral Oil for frying
Garnish
● Garlic Chips
● Fresh cilantro, lightly minced
● Fermented Cherry Tomatoes, see below
Instructions
1. Soak the beans, add them to a large bowl and add 1.5x the volume of water. It is better to have more water than less as the beans will expand. The general rule is 1 cup of dry beans to 4 cups of water. Let the beans soak for at least 12 hours covered on the counter or in the fridge.
2. Begin by rendering the bacon. Cut the bacon into about 1in pieces, bigger is better as the pieces will shrink. Add to a medium-sized pot or pan on medium heat and add enough water to barely cover the bacon (water will help render the fat out). Cook for around 30 minutes, once the water has boiled off and the pieces of bacon have begun to lightly fry, reduce the heat to medium-low and let it go for 5 or so more minutes. The bacon should be crispy around the edges but still have visible fat. Strain and set the bacon grease aside, we will need this for the next step, reserve the bacon for later.
3. Make the sofrito. Begin with the bacon grease from above and add to a large pot over medium heat. Add the diced onion and garlic cloves and lightly saute for 10 minutes or until the garlic and onion have begun to turn translucent. Push the onions and garlic to the side of the pot, then add the cumin seeds into the middle and gently fry in the fat until they have darkened and become fragrant, 1 minute. Stir together then add the canned tomato and cook for 10 more minutes.
4. Once the tomato has broken down and the sofrito has gone “dry” add the beans with their soaking water as well as the oregano, bay leaves, ancho chile, chipotle, salt and ¾ of the reserved bacon. Increase heat to high and bring to a boil, then reduce down to a simmer.
5. As the smell envelops your house, taste the beans, they should take no longer than 2 hrs at a simmer. Tasting them will give you an idea of how much longer they need, the beans should be soft but still be whole, if they have begun to split open they are starting to overcook, if they still have a bite in the middle, they need more time. The longer you soak the beans, the less time they will take to cook. Cook the beans until the bite has gone and the liquid has reduced. I soaked my beans around 12 hrs and they took nearly 2 hrs to cook.
*If your beans have excess liquid but they are fully cooked, spoon some off the top and discard, if the liquid has gone below the beans add just enough water to cover. Beans will continue to reabsorb liquid as they cool and are reheated, but they shouldn’t be watery.
6. Once the beans are cooked to your liking they must be properly seasoned. Add the apple cider vinegar, brown sugar and stir well, season with salt and pepper until the beans taste good. Keep the pot on low heat so the flavours meld and the beans stay warm.
7. Make the fried garlic chips. Fill a small pot with about an inch or so of neutral oil and place on low heat. Using a thermometer bring the pot to 300-325 degrees. Peel and thinly slice garlic cloves using a sharp knife or a mandoline, add the pieces to cold water. Once the oil has reached the temp, drain and add a tablespoon or so of garlic in at a time, bring the oil back up to temp and watch the garlic fry. After 3-5 minutes it will quickly change colour from white to a subtle golden colour, this is where you want it. Using a slotted spoon, take out and place on a paper towel (if the garlic is still soft here but the colour is right, don’t worry, once it cools it will crisp up). If you fry longer, the chips will turn out darker and more bitter but still tasty.
8. Plate by spooning the beans into a serving bowl, top with the remaining bacon pieces, garlic chips, cilantro and fermented tomatoes! Enjoy this delicious latin-inspired dish this holiday season or anytime you are craving a delicious homey bowl of beans! Prepare as a side or as a main with steamed rice!
Lacto-Fermented Cherry Tomatoes
A favourite garnish of mine as of late. These little tomatoes explode right in your mouth. They are sweet, slightly sour, a little garlicky and oh-so-good. Easily customizable with just 4 ingredients, they are an excellent way to get into fermentation!
Ingredients
● 2 clamshells Mans Organic Cherry Tomatoes
● 2 cloves Garlic
● 1 tsp Oregano (we recommend Simply Organic, Chickadee Farms)
● 2 cups Water
● 2 tsp of kosher or Himalayan Salt
● A mason jar or litre container
Instructions
1. Quickly run the mason jar or chosen container under hot running water for 1 minute, lid included, and set aside to dry.
2. Lightly crush the cloves of garlic with the side of a knife and add to the jar, add 1 teaspoon oregano and then add the cherry tomatoes. Fill a bowl with warm water, add the salt and stir until it is dissolved. Add to the jar and fill until the tomatoes are fully covered and the water is just below the neckline of the jar. Don’t add too much water or it will overflow once it begins to ferment!
3. Leave in a dark cool space on the counter for three days, ensuring to remove the lid at least once a day. Place the jar in the fridge to slow down the fermentation. The tomatoes are now good to eat, they will begin to get slightly more sour and flavourful as time passes. These will last up to 6 weeks and are perfect in my opinion between weeks 1 and 2. If they get too sour for your liking, add them to pasta sauces or other dishes that need a splash of colour and pop!
*You may also add your favourite herbs to this fermentation, I have used cilantro stems before but feel free to use any of your favourite fresh or dried herbs, dill, thyme and rosemary work well.
Lard
Bacon grease and lard often get a bad wrap for being unhealthy. When comparing it to a traditional seed oil like canola, you will find that lard is not as bad as its reputation makes it. First off it is all about moderation, lard can bring good flavour to dishes, make pastries more creamy, has a higher smoke point than olive oil, can be easily stored, is easily rendered and overall takes less energy to produce than a seed oil like canola. Lard contains less omega-6 than most processed seed oils making it a better option in moderation. Lard is a favourite in Mexico and most foods are cooked using it, when a pig is broken down nothing is wasted. It is all about how much you consume and where that fat came from, local farmers who can tell you what the pigs have been eating should be the first stop. Other animal-based fats follow the same rule.
Tips
If you are using dried beans but you forgot to soak them, don’t worry! Add ½ tsp of baking soda for every 1lb of beans, this increases the alkaline in the water and helps the beans break down and absorb liquid faster. If you happen to overcook the beans or have a lot of leftovers and want to try something different, “refrito” is refried beans. This is what you will find in most Mexican restaurants, to make this simply add ½ cup of beans into a food processor, adding liquid if necessary till a paste is formed. Add this paste to some more lard or oil and you have refrito, commonly enjoyed for breakfast with eggs or spread on toast. The leftover oil from frying garlic may be used in the refrito or to cook eggs, certainly don’t waste it, it’ll bring garlicky goodness to anything you cook in it!
Nutrition of Turtle Beans
Black Turtle Beans are commonly known simply as black beans. These beans are a great source of protein and contain one of the highest naturally occurring amounts in the plant world, containing up to 20g of protein per 100g of dried beans. Enjoying this recipe with a protein like turkey or ham makes for a very protein-rich meal. Black turtle beans are naturally very high in fibre with about 15g per 100g. Black beans contain numerous essential nutrients, with the highest occurring being folate, magnesium and potassium, all nutrients that a majority of the population lacks. Black beans are also extremely low on the glycemic index producing a score of just 1 out of 100!
Substitutions
In this recipe, you can use any type of bean sold at Amaranth, dried or canned. Kidney beans, navy beans and pinto beans are my favourites, they all have different textures and absorb flavours differently so keep that in mind. If using canned be sure to use that starchy bean liquid and follow the recipe as usual, just decrease the simmering time by roughly half, remember to taste for texture! If you are not a fan of spice but still want flavour from spices use Simply Organic or Splendor Garden chili powder instead of Ancho chile, and use Westpoint Naturals or Splendor Garden smoked paprika instead of the chipotle. The bacon ends may be substituted with regular bacon, wild boar bacon, back bacon, leftover ham or smoked turkey.
Storage
Beans store well whether it is in the fridge or the freezer. Let the beans cool down to room temperature and add to deli containers, mason jars or plastic containers. In the fridge, they will last up to 10 days and in the freezer for up to 1 year. When reheating, bring up the temperature slowly and add more liquid as needed.
Sides
This recipe works as an easy side for a large dinner. Other dishes this would work well alongside are my Turkey and Mole (recipe above), Callaloo, Guatemalan Fried Chicken, Kak’ik, Roasted Purple Sweet Potatoes, Ancestral Albondigas, Butternut Squash Mac, and Enchiladas!